What do you think of when you think of Africa? Perhaps a classic movie like the “African Queen”, “Out of Africa”, or “I Dreamed of Africa”.
To think of an African Safari was so removed from where I dwelled in my little hometown that I never ever gave it a second thought. African Safaris, were after all, something that movies were made of, or at least, a trip for the rich and famous.
Dubai
In November 2003, my life had changed with my move to the Middle East… it had changed to a situation where travel and adventure were possible. Suddenly, the world was my oyster and I was intending to taste “all” of the goodness.
On November 21, 2003 I got on the plane with ten of my colleagues. We traveled to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates where we awaited the departure of our aircraft to cart us off to our exotic destination. Our travel agency had booked us for a five day tour of three of the national parks across Kenya.
Once we were on board Kenya Airways, we could see that it was filled with many African nationals returning to their homeland, businessmen hoping for their next contract and tourists, like us, looking forward to the sights and sounds of the Serengeti.
Nairobi
At about 6:30 in the morning we arrived at Nairobi, the capital of Kenya. I never slept a wink on our six hour flight from Dubai.; yet, I was alert with anticipation as I thought about our upcoming adventure. There was green everywhere, unlike the arid land that we had just left behind. We boarded a bus and traveled to the bus depot where we could wash up before our first stop at the Serengeti Plains.
Amboseli Lodge
At about 2:00 in the afternoon, singing our theme song “ The Lion Sleeps Tonight” to the top of our lungs, we arrived at the first park on our itinerary, the Amboseli Lodge. We were warmly greeted and lead to our lodging which was a cluster of cabins along a pathway overlooking the Serengeti Plains. A tasty lunch was provided in the dining room from which my friends and I had a panoramic view of Mount Kilimanjaro. Dressed in our matching safari jackets, like an army of tourists, the eleven of us set off at 4:00 p. m. for our first afternoon safari.
The whole scene was surreal as we stood in the canopied van waiting to see a lioness and her cubs or if we were lucky, the king of the jungle himself. Our skilled driver, Joe, was wonderful as he weaved the car through the plains and hid behind an acacia tree to wait for the herd of elephants approaching. There were four adult elephants and a baby. Suddenly, we heard a male elephant, with his trunk raised kick up his heels as he raced toward the baby. Joe explained that the male was from another herd and that he was after the baby elephant. Apparently, this baby elephant was the leader of this neighboring herd since the father had already died. The adult male elephant was ready to fight for supremacy in the region. The mother and the other females surrounded the baby to protect it and eventually the male adult elephant retreated and proceeded on his way. I am not sure how accurate this description was of elephant behavior, but it sounded interesting to me.
That night after dinner, my friends and I got together to have a sing-along around a fire pit in front of our accommodations. We talked about our first safari and we all agreed that it was surreal and larger than life. We further established that a visit to a zoo, any zoo, would never be the same since we could now envision these animals in “the wild”.
My most amazing memory of the Serengeti, other than that incredible view of Mount Kilimanjaro, was waking up at 6:00 in the morning and looking out the window at sunrise. There straight ahead of me was a herd of elephants, with their little ones holding their mom’s tails, as they all pranced across the plain. I was enthralled, totally. I had to stop and take a deep breath. This surely was a moment in time.
The Maasai Village
Out next stop was to the Maasai village near the Serengeti. The Maasai are a very famous warrior tribe in Kenya whose lives center on herding cattle. They live in small settlements of 8-15 huts called a kraal. Their settlements are surrounded by a fence of thorns. All the livestock including cattle, goats, and other domestic animals are held in the krall at night for their protection from wild animals.
The Maasai greeted us with the “Jump” dance after which time they proceeded to show us their various wares of beaded necklaces, bracelets and wooden artifacts which they had carved from the wood of the acacia tree. The Maasai are very shrewd business people. They would have you gather all the things that you wanted to buy and then the negotiating would start. Each business man would use his staff to draw in the sand a total price for the articles that you chose. It was expected that you would negotiate the price on the articles. It was part of the game of negotiation.
I was particularly interested in the “Shuka” that the chief of the tribe, Wilson, was wearing. A Maasai’s clothing is usually red meaning power. Since red is my favorite color, I could actually picture this shuka hanging on my living room wall. I asked Wilson about his shuka (Maa- the Maasai language for sheets wrapped over the body) and he asked me to follow him to his hut.
Wilson’s hut was made of cow dung and mud into a sticky clay. Joining branches and twigs to form the walls of the hut, the clay is then used like a cement to support the walls. Wilson’s wife actually built the hut in which he lived..
Tem minutes and twenty American dollars later, I left Wilson’s hut with another of Wilson’s shuka smelling of smoke from the wood fire his wife tended. I was happy with my purchase. Meanwhile, my friends were quite worried about me and came running towards me as I left with my shuka in hand.
Lake Nakaru National Park
As we left the Maasai village everyone was excited about the souvenirs that they bought. We all shared the pictures that we took and remarked that our first day in Kenya was Then we were off to see the flamingos at Lake Nakuru National Park. The population of flamingos have been declining in the last number of years but you would never say it if you saw the sky alight with a pink haze. At Lake Nakuru we stayed in small cabins right “Out of Africa”. The bed was comfortable and had a mosquito net hanging from the ceiling enveloping the entire bed. After we settled in to our cabins, we were off to see the dancing and musical entertainment planned for us.
The next day we were on to the Maasai Mara in south western Africa which is considered to be the most famous game reserve in Kenya…made famous for its variety of game. We were present for the Great Migration of zebras and wildebeests from the Serengeti. It was absolutely stupefying to see the thousands of wildebeests as they advanced over the ridge to the river below.
The trip to the Maasai Mara was absolutely unbelievable. We traveled for three hours across ditches on roads that were like nothing I had ever seen before. By the time that we arrived at the Maasai Mara Lodge, I thought that my organs had been displaced with all the bumping and grinding of the wicked road conditions. What could possibly merit such abuse?
Maasai Mara National Park
Once we arrived at the lodge, we all soon forgot our aches and pains. We were met by a real Maasai warrior in his traditional shuka and carrying his staff. The lodge was amazingly beautiful with pitched roofs and an atmosphere warmed by its large fireplace. Our accommodation was a “luxury tent” which looked like a five star hotel room in the jungle. Can you picture it? As we lay in bed in the evening, we could hear the sounds of the rhinoceros outside the fenced compound.
On one afternoon safari, we were fortunate enough to see a pride of lions that had just finished their hunt…an unfortunate wildebeest was the victim. Further along the trail we saw a lion and a lioness mating. We watched as the male caressed and fondled his lioness. In the mating season, apparently, lions mate every fifteen minutes. Isn’t it amazing how nature works!
The Carnivore Restaurant
After five days, we sadly started our trip back to Nairobi. Our driver, Joe told us that we still had one surprise left…a trip to the Carnivore Restaurant in Nairobi. Well, the Carnivore was everything that Joe said it would be. As we entered the open air restaurant, we could smell the various times of meat, wild game included roasting on the barbecue. The wild game menu included crocodile, ostrich, zebra and wildebeest while chicken, beef and pork were readily available for the less adventurous. After a couple of hours listening to the song “Jumbo” we left the gaiety of the Carnivore Restaurant satisfied that our minds were filled with lots of memories, our luggage with lots of wonderful, well-made African crafts and our tummies full once again